Seftel: Noca opens next week

Now is the summer of our discontent, but maybe not for long. That’s because one of the most ambitious new restaurants of 2008 is set to launch sometime next week.

Noca – north of Camelback – is the work of owner Eliot Wexler, an international foodie who has scoured the world’s finest restaurants for inspiration, and chef Chris Curtiss, who did a first-rate job at Circa 1900. The restaurant is moving into the spot that last housed Eleve, on the northwest corner of Camelback and 32nd Street.

Wexler says Noca’s “modern American” fare is all about quality and value. Words like “fresh,” “homemade,” “premium ingredients” and “affordable” pop up in his conversation. His goal: “fine dining in a casual atmosphere at an accessible price.”

The menu reflects his priorities. There’s a “crudo” section that could be labeled “sashimi:” fluke with yuzu shallot vinaigrette ($10), big eye tuna with roasted peppers ($12) and kampachi with pint nuts and mint ($10).

Starters range through eggplant “caviar” with blinis ($11), duck confit with napa cabbage slaw ($13) and chilled white corn soup with chorizo croquettes ($10).

The kitchen showcases daily homemade pastas. The options include fettuccine with calamari and pancetta ($16) and pappardelle with lamb ragout ($18).

Wexler promises top-notch fish and meat. Among the main dishes: day-boat halibut with jerusalem artichoke puree ($28); skate wing with sugar snap peas ($24); a Berkshire pork chop and pork belly duo with rosemary-accented spaetzle ($27); and prime beef rib eye in red wine sauce ($34).

The most singular part of the operation is what Noca calls “simple supper,” a limited-choice, three-course, $35 dinner. A preview simple supper features a starter of organic romaine with grape tomatoes, brioche croutons and Point Reyes blue cheese dressing; a sea bass or flat-iron steak entree; and a Valrhona chocolate brownie sundae dessert. The simple supper line-up will change nightly, while the a la carte menu will reflect what’s in the market.

Wexler has brought in some accomplished underlings as well, including front-of-the-house personnel from Mary Elaine’s, morning sous chef German Sega (who worked with James Beard Award- winner Nobuo Fukuda at Sea Saw) and pastry chef Kriss Harvey (from Bartolotta and Robuchon in Las Vegas). Harvey will be whipping up desserts ($8) like doughnut holes with dulce de leche jam, chocolate and banana pudding and chilled spiced fruit soup with mascarpone semi-freddo. Details: Noca, 3118 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-956-6622. Hours: Dinner, full menu and simple supper, 5 to 10 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday; Simple supper only, 5 to 10 p.m., Sunday and Monday. restaurantnoca.com.

Eliot Wexler puts foie gras through a tamis to make it smoother.