2 restaurants' wine choices earn high marks

Wine lists at House of Tricks and Caffe Boa impressed Wine Spectator judges, who honored the downtown Tempe restaurants with the coveted Award of Excellence for 2008.

The popular eateries that sit on opposite ends of the Mill Avenue District were among 91 restaurants in Arizona to be recognized with one of the three levels of awards given out annually by the publication. They were the only Tempe restaurants to earn an award and are featured in the Aug. 31 issue.

Winners were selected based on the variety, quality and organization of their wine lists, as well as vintage and appellation information. Judges also evaluate the food menu to see how the wines pair with various meals.

House of Tricks' first award comes after submitting its list for the first time this year. Wine director Ryan Brown said the diversity of the regions represented, price range and an easy to peruse list were pluses.

"We offer some good values and some on the higher end. We work hard to make sure we are as diverse as possible," Brown said of his list that includes bottles ranging from $20 to $260, and wines by the glass for $5.75 to $14.

After winning this award for the first time last year, Caffe Boa owner Jay Wisniewski said he expanded the regions featured on his list, which includes the requisite Napa, Bordeaux and Tuscany alongside the less common Croatia, South Africa and Greece. The addition of biodynamic and organic wines and a few new entrees to his dinner menu likely helped lock his second consecutive award, he said.

"I don't just list something to have it on the list. Each and every bottle has been tasted by myself, and I can recommend it with confidence for certain food pairings or palates," he said. "Knowledge is key and to have a staff that can recommend quality choices with sound basis is key. I think that helps very much with the repeat award."

Caffe Boa features 440 bottles ranging from $28 to $899, and more than 40 wines by the glass for $6.75 to $21.

Wisniewski said he and Brown are serious about wine and that both restaurants are willing to be adventurous when it comes to their lists and menus.

"Tempe is a hub for palates that are open to trying new dishes and wines. That helps both of us to present options that might not fly in other parts of the Valley that may be more dependant on big names and past reputations," he said. "I know both of us taste everything we put on the list and we stand behind our choices. We don't buy on reputation but rather the actual result of that vintage."

Brown said the beverage's continued popularity also helps.

"I think there's a bigger interest in wine and that the public is more interested in wine than they've ever been. Even college students are into it," Brown said. "It's something that's come out of demand. I think it's nice that Mill Avenue has some wine reputation."

Wine flight at Caffe Boa in Tempe.