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Scenic drive: Wupatki, Sunset Crater

Flagstaff sites preserve ancient cultures, geologic upheaval

John Stanley
The Arizona Republic
Jul. 19, 2007 09:48 AM

Not all scenic drives involve long, jouncy trips on remote dirt roads. Case in point: Forest Road 545 (also called the "Loop Road") meanders 36 paved miles through the high desert plains and volcanic fields northeast of Flagstaff. The landscape varies dramatically, from flat, sparsely vegetated and rather austere vistas along the first few miles to colorful cinder cones flanked by tall ponderosa pines at the southern end. Along the way you can explore fascinating Indian ruins (some a short drive off the main road), ideal places to ponder those who lived here so long ago.

Lomaki Pueblo: A short walk takes you to the remnants of this "beautiful house," a two-story, multiroom structure occupied in the early part of the 13th century. Notice the smaller dwellings beside Box Canyon and the silhouette of the San Francisco Peaks in the distance. Lomaki is nearly 4 miles from U.S. 89.

Doney Picnic Area: Bring a lunch to enjoy here, then take in the sweeping views of the Wupatki Basin as you try to imagine the region as it was when the cinder cones were active. While you're at it, admire the subtle hues of the Painted Desert to the northeast. A walk along the short nature trail is a fine way to gain perspective on the geology, history and culture of this area, about 9 miles from U.S. 89.

Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument: Several great exhibits at the visitors center explain the whys, hows and wheres of volcanic activity, with an emphasis on its effects in the region. Along with hands-on displays, including a variety of volcanic rocks, you'll find information on the region's plant and animal life. There's even a working seismic station. Details: 8 a.m.-5 p.m. May-October, 9 a.m.-5p.m. November-April. 1-(928)-526-0502, nps.gov/sucr.





Wupatki
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Visitors stroll around Wupatki Pueblo, a national monument just off Forest Road 545, about 30 miles northeast of Flagstaff.
 related
Total miles: About 350 miles, round trip, from central Phoenix. Take Interstate 17 north about 140 miles to Flagstaff, then take U.S. 89 north about 25 miles to the northern entrance to Wupatki National Monument, between mile markers 444 and 445. Turn east (right) onto Forest Road 545 (a k a "the Loop Road") and go a little more than 13 miles to the visitors center. Afterward, continue south on FR 545 through Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument and back to U.S. 89.
Don't miss: Wupatki Pueblo. The main structure at the monument, a 100-room, four-story apartment house, was built from chunks of sandstone, limestone and basalt about 900 years ago. Archaeologists say the inhabitants, ancestors of today's Hopi, Zuni and Navajo people, abandoned the area about 700 years ago. There are several smaller structures nearby, including a large room (perhaps a meeting area) and a well-preserved ball court. Be sure to check out the blowhole, a geological feature at the end of the walkway. It almost always blows cool air up out of the Earth on a summer day. It's as fun as it is refreshing.
Details: $5 per person (good for both Wupatki and Sunset Crater). 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily. 1-(928)-679-2365, nps.gov/wupa.

Soundtrack

Here's some music to play as you drive to and from Wupatki Pueblo and Sunset Crater.
Canyon Trilogy: Native American Flute Music, R. Carlos Nakai: This Arizonan's album contains 17 movements featuring masterful, haunting flute music.
The Return Home, Radmilla Cody: This Navajo singer's stunning voice captures traditional sounds sure to match the scenery.
Highwayman, the Highwaymen: Johnny Cash, Waylon Jennings, Willie Nelson and Kris Kristofferson sing of Wild West spirits.
Against the Wind, Bob Seger: The wind is everywhere as you drive or hike near the Wupatki ruins. Seger harnessed it on this classic.
On Sirius Satellite Radio: Chill (Channel 35) plays the mellower side of electronic music.
On XM Satellite Radio: Watercolors (Channel 71) features contemporary and smooth jazz artists.
- Larry Rodgers
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