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Scenic drive: U.S. 160 from Black Mesa to Four Corners

John Stanley
The Arizona Republic
Sept. 18, 2008 01:57 PM

The drive along U.S. 160 across northeastern Arizona's Navajo Reservation is a sensual experience. Fat, puffy clouds float in an azure sky, jagged volcanic intrusions stand scattered across the peach-colored desert and otherworldly geologic features lap up against the highway.

This is one of the most interesting drives in the state. And that's saying something. Things to note along the way:

Black Mesa Coal-Conveyer Belt: As you cross beneath part of this immense structure (between mile markers 373 and 374), you can't help but think of eco-provocateur Edward Abbey and his screeds against the political and commercial forces despoiling his sacred desert. For decades, the Peabody Coal Co. took water from the Navajo Aquifer to pump coal slurry more than 250 miles to the Mohave Generating Station in Laughlin, Nev. In 2005, the station ceased operations rather than comply with a court order to install more than a billion dollars worth of pollution controls.
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Kayenta: This small town bills itself as the gateway to Monument Valley. (Take U.S. 163 about 22 miles north.) Originally a trading post founded by John Wetherill in 1909, the town's name may come from the Navajo word tye-nde, meaning "the pits where the animals fall in," according to Arizona Place Names, by Will Croft Barnes (University of Arizona Press, $23.50).

Details: kayenta.nndes.org.

Baby Rocks Mesa: You'll pass some of the most interesting geologic features of the drive between mile markers 407 and 408. Oddly shaped pinnacles and hoodoos stand along the highway, with sharply defined layers running horizontally through the sandstone and siltstone cliffs. The vaguely Bryce Canyon-like formations look something like red flowstone caught in the act of melting into the earth. Pull over (safely) to check it out.





Kayenta
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A rainbow glows over rock formations outside Kayenta on the Navajo Reservation.
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Total miles: About 745 miles, round trip. From central Phoenix, take Interstate 17 north about 140 miles to Flagstaff. Take Interstate 40 east about 6 miles through town, then follow U.S. 89 north about 60 miles. Turn east onto U.S. 160 and proceed about 165 miles to the turnoff to the Four Corners Monument (which is about a half-mile into New Mexico).

Don't miss: The Four Corners Monument. Yeah, it's a little cheesy, but this is the only place in the United States where four states come together, which is kind of cool. A brass-and-granite monument marks the spot where gazillions of tourists have had their photo taken, one appendage in each of the four states: Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado and Utah. A small viewing stand allows the photographer in your group to get just the right angle. Although Navajo vendors sell handmade jewelry, crafts and a few food items at the monument, keep in mind that it's a remote, undeveloped site with no electricity or running water. The nearest gas station is in Teec Nos Pos, about 6 miles southwest. 7 a.m.-8 p.m. daily June through September; 8 a.m.-5 p.m. daily October through May. $3 per person.
Details: Navajo Parks and Recreation Department, 928-871-6647 or www.navajonationparks.org

Playlist

Here are songs to spin while driving on U.S. 160 in northeastern Arizona:
• 
Dark as a Dungeon, Merle Travis: This tune about coal mining is more than a half-century old.
• 
Water, New Model Army: This rocker celebrates the stuff running in the Navajo Aquifer.
• Big Sky, Kate Bush: There's plenty of blue stretching over Monument Valley.
• Roll Away the Stone, Leon Russell: Don't try this when driving past Baby Rocks Mesa.
• On Sirius Satellite Radio: Sirius Hits 1 (Channel 1) plays Top 40 tracks.
• On XM Satellite Radio: On Broadway (Channel 28) plays show tunes from the Great White Way.
- Larry Rodgers
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